Camping at Pedra da Gavea

It was Cody's idea to go camping at Pedra. It was a great idea! It all began with murmurings in the house of a possible hike to the summit of Pedra on the weekend. Pedra da Gavea, in Tijuca Forest, is the world's largest monolith adjacent to the ocean and only about ten minutes from the Connection Rio house. The summit, at an elevation of 844m, boasts one of the most spectacular views of the city and once we heard about camping, we were both in. Seeing sunset and sunrise from Pedra's summit seemed too good to miss out on. Initially, many of the guys in the house were interested in coming and then the stories of the forest cat, the giant snake, the hybrid of the two, or maybe the idea of camping, the numbers started to dwindle. In the end it was only four, Mike, Cody, and us, bags packed, heading to Tijuca Forest on Saturday afternoon.

We left late in the afternoon to avoid the heat, but even still, ten minutes of walking uphill with our backpacks to the entrance of Tijuca Forest was enough to tire us. I had heard that it's a hard hike and I wasn't sure how we were going to fare with the heavy backpacks of water, food, camera equipment and tents on this steep uphill trek. Camping is prohibited in Tijuca Forest, so we told the guard that we were only going to the midpoint of the trail. Then began the trek up, initially a cobble-stone path, followed by a windy uphill trail in which you have to use the roots of trees for steps and support. We stopped at the waterfall, but as it hasn't rained in several weeks, there was no fall and very little water. We did manage to refill our water bottles with spring water running off a rock surface. And all along the trail, the air was filled with the sweet smell of ripe and slightly rotting Jack fruit, the pods and seeds strewn along the path.

The most difficult part for me, was the very last, where you have to climb the granite rock face. Although there is some rope to help pull yourself up, it can be dangerous if you're not careful. This was the hardest trek we have done, and getting to the top was an achievement in itself. We arrived just as the sun was beginning to set and although it was a little cloudy, the views of Barra and Rio on opposite sides of Pedra were stunning.

We chose a spot for the tents and started the campfire with the coal Cody had carried all the way up and kindling from brush nearby. We expected to be the only ones up there, but we weren't. There were a few photographers with their tripods camping for the night. Occasionally, along the upper peaks of the mountain, were flashes of light from other campers greeting those around them. And in the early morning hours, more and more visitors arrived, sitting on the cliff's edge, ready for sunrise.

After a dinner of sandwiches, hot dogs and potatoes cooked over the campfire and roasted bananas with melted chocolate for desert, we sat around the fire in conversation, gazing at the full moon and starry night sky, admiring the beauty of our surroundings. Occasional walking to the cliff's edge, to see the lit cityscape, the dark mountain peaks in the distance and the tiny figure of Christo, embracing the city. Or to the opposite end, where Barra was glowing in yellows, and oranges amidst the darkness like a Bright Lite creation. For me, simply being there and being able to experience this place invoked a sense of wonder, and gratitude. I was happy to be there and share the experience with those around me. The hours melted away, and we happily headed to bed, hoping to rise early.

I opened my eyes to shades of orange through the tent. We quickly slipped on our shoes and headed towards the cliff. While we were sleeping, many more people had arrived and we all sat in anticipation as the sky changed colours, shades of reds, oranges, and yellows across the horizon of sea and mountains, the sky slowly brightening, and the sun rising over the ocean.

After gathering our things, we decided to climb to the top of the peak on the opposite site of where we had camped. Mike had brought his kimono and it was time for a photo-op, posing on the edge of the cliff, with Barra visible in the background looking as though you were seeing the neighbourhood through a filter of blue. Once the descent began, it was far from easy. The steep steps downward were hard on the knees and finding your balance was more difficult on the climb down with a backpack on. Even still, the trek was amazing and I would happily do it again. The view of the marvellous city, dark mountains interrupting the contours of the shoreline, the blitz of lights from each unique neighbourhood nestled in between the mountains, the long arch of Copacabana beach, all overlooking the ocean-simply breathtaking.